Dry Washing an Airplane: What It Is, When to Do It, and How to Do It Safely
- Matt Farrell
- Jan 1
- 10 min read
Have you heard the audio clip from Oshkosh?"Cessna with the REALLY dirty belly, rock your wings…”You can almost feel the pilot’s embarrassment through the headset.
A grimy airplane isn’t just unsightly, it practically begs for attention. But the truth is, it’s not always the owner’s fault. At many GA airports, wet washing simply isn’t an option. Some fields don’t have a proper wash rack. Others lack runoff containment. Environmental policies vary from one airport to the next, and dragging a hose across the ramp without approval can put you in hot water with airport ops, or worse.
That’s where dry washing comes in, not as a shortcut, but as a smart, controlled alternative. For some owners, it’s the only method they’re allowed to use. For others, it’s a way to keep the airplane looking sharp between proper wet washes, especially when time, weather, or facility access gets in the way.
A lot of owners are doing both: wet washing when they can, dry washing when they can’t, just to knock the grime off between flights. And the results speak for themselves. When it’s done right, that consistent attention adds up. We’ve seen aircraft paint and polished aluminum finishes hold up well beyond industry averages with just a bit of regular care.
What exactly is dry washing?
Dry washing an aircraft is a waterless cleaning method that uses lubricated cleaners to encapsulate surface contaminants so they can be safely lifted away without abrasion or runoff.
Instead of suspending dirt in water and detergent then rinsing it away, dry wash products use carefully engineered cleaners to emulsify or encapsulate contaminants so you can lift them away with soft towels, no water, no runoff, no abrasion. Done right, it’s a safe way to clean, inspect, and protect the aircraft without hauling out a hose.
The key? It’s never about scrubbing harder. It’s about reducing friction, lifting grime gently, and protecting the surface, especially on older paint or composite finishes.
When Dry Washing Works Well
Dry washing shines in these situations:
- Light dust or windblown grit
- Fresh bug residue that hasn’t baked on
- Aircraft that live mostly in a hangar
- Regular, frequent maintenance cleaning
- Quick refresh between full wet washes
In these cases, you can keep the plane looking sharp without blocking off an entire day or hunting for a dedicated facility.
As Jet Stream co-founder Phillip Pierce puts it:
“Dry washing works best when it’s done regularly. If you let grime sit and build up, then you force yourself into a wet wash and most people don’t have the tools or facility to do that properly.”
The habit of regular dry washing your airplane stops contaminants from bonding to the paint, making every future cleaning easier and extending the life of your finish.
When Dry Washing Is Not the Right Choice
Sometimes dry washing just isn’t enough:
- Heavy soil, oil, or soot buildup
- Old, baked-on bug residue that’s already etching paint or clearcoat
- Bonded contamination like acid rain deposits
- Thick grime on the belly or around the engine
- Planes that haven’t seen cleaning in months
If the surface feels gritty when you run your hand over it, that’s your warning sign. Dry washing alone won’t cut it. You need a proper wet wash, ideally on a wash rack or with a professional detailer. Knowing when to walk away is just as important as knowing the technique.
Speaking of experts, always defer to aircraft manufacturer maintenance manuals and FAA guidance when selecting cleaning methods or chemicals, especially around composites, windows, and flight-critical surfaces.
Phillip nailed this one too:
“We’ve cleaned aircraft that sat on the ramp at LaGuardia through winter storms and de-icing operations, then flew back to Dallas. You’re not going to dry wash that. You need water, rinse, and agitation from tip to tail. If you don’t have access, you call someone who does.”
What Tools and Products You Need to Dry Wash Your Airplane
Dry washing isn’t a spray bottle and an old T-shirt. The right gear turns it from “rubbing dirt around” into a safe, effective process.
A solid setup includes:
- Clean, soft towels—high-quality microfiber or big cotton bath towels from Sam's Club work great
- Telescoping pole (highly recommended) for reaching high spots safely
- Good spray applicators for even coverage
- A stable ladder—because you’ll be touching every square inch of the aircraft
Invest in these basics, and the job gets easier while your paint stays safer.
Understanding Dry Wash Products: You Need a System, Not a Miracle Bottle
Here’s where a lot of pilots get frustrated. We all want that one magic bottle that does everything. I hate to tell you this, while it may exist in the automotive world, that product doesn’t exist for aircraft. In the first article of The Aircraft Detailing Series I discussed the science behind why products intended for your car, do not have the correct chemistry for your airplane.
Airplane dry wash products fall into distinct categories, and each has its job. Trouble starts when we grab one strong product and use it everywhere or mix incompatible chemistries.
A smart dry wash kit usually includes:
1. A stronger cleaner (like Powerfoam) for stubborn spots like grease and oil
2. A quick detail spray for regular light cleaning (Jet Streams Quick Turn and Av-Shield are great options)
3. A cream polish or wax such as Flyers Speed Wax or Av-Shield Ceramic Polish for high-abuse areas
4. A paint sealant like Liquid Diamond to restore protection after cleaning
5. Dedicated cleaners for windows and brightwork; Plexi-Clear is a great option for this.
**Product examples mentioned are based on real-world use and familiarity, not because there is a single “best” product for every aircraft.**
If you are not sure where to start, I recommend this simple dry wash kit from Jet Stream Aviation Products. Purchased at Aero-Mach Wilco for just $35; it will not break the bank and gives you the right products in a convenient package to get you started. Throw in some Flyers Speed Wax after you get comfortable with these and you are on your way to maintaining the paint on your beautiful airplane.
Breaking Down Dry Wash Products
Spray Detailers
These are your everyday go-to. They come in spray bottles or aerosols and give you that satisfying “spray-and-wipe” speed pilots love.
They’re formulated to:
- Lift light dust and fingerprints
- Reduce friction while you wipe
- Maintain gloss and existing protection
Combined with a microfiber towel and used frequently, they keep you from ever reaching “emergency cleaning” territory.
Heavier Protection: Cream Waxes and Polishes
Cream-style products are perfect for leading edges, noses, bug-impact zones, and exhaust areas. Those spots take the hardest beating and need thicker, longer-lasting protection.
They take a few extra seconds to apply and hand buff with a microfiber towel, but the payoff is worth it. You will find that after continued use, removal of contaminants like bugs and grime becomes easier and easier. That will be your proof that the product you are using is working.
A Critical Sidebar: Don’t Mix Chemistry (If You Want the Best Results)
One common mistake pilots make is mixing carnauba-based waxes with polymer- or SiO2-based sealants (or vice versa). They’re engineered differently—carnauba for warm, deep shine; polymers/SiO2 for durable, wet-look, slick protection and easy cleaning.
You won’t damage the paint by mixing them, and carnauba can even go over a ceramic coating for a temporary glow boost. But you’ll lose much of the polymer/ceramic advantages with reduced hydrophobicity, more dust attraction, and shorter lifespan.
“Because ceramic/SiO₂‑based coatings chemically bond to the paint surface — unlike carnauba waxes, which sit on top of the surface — mixing the two is not recommended for optimal performance. Waxes may adhere, but they won’t bond with the ceramic layer, and can actually reduce hydrophobic effectiveness or gloss over time. Ceramic Pro’s technical guidance notes that waxes and sealants don’t interact with ceramic coatings the same way and may compromise coating performance.” -CeramicPro
Pick a system and stick with it for maximum performance. If your plane is ceramic-coated (or you’re simply using SiO₂ products), stay polymer-based. Even on non ceramic-coated planes like Aero-Mach's Cessna 210, I prefer polymers. In my experience they just deliver better long-term protection and easier maintenance in the real world. Consistency beats mixing every time.
Degreasers for the Really Dirty Spots
You will have some areas that need more muscle—oily bellies, greasy wheel wells, exhaust stains etc. Products like Powerfoam are excellent degreasers for breaking down heavy grime, but use them sparingly. They’re cleaners, not protectants.
“Powerfoam works great—but it’s a degreaser. You don’t run it over the whole aircraft; save it for spots that need it.”
-Phillip Pierce, Vice President Jet Stream Aviation Products
Rule of thumb: always use the mildest product that gets the job done. Overkill strips protection faster than necessary.
Dry Washing Technique A Step by Step Guide
Good dry washing is thoughtful, not forceful. Here’s the rhythm that works:
1. Section the airplane—work one manageable area at a time.
2. Move methodically—top to bottom, left to right. Never drag a dirty towel over a clean area.
3. Apply the right product—lightly mist detail spray or spread polishing cream evenly
4. Use clean towels —lots of them— always wipe with a fresh section so you’re lifting dirt, not spreading it. Take them home and wash them before you need them again!
5. Flip and replace towels frequently—a dirty towel turns into sandpaper.
Common Dry Wash Mistakes to Avoid
• Using too few towels and re-dragging contaminants
• Applying degreasers across large surface areas
• Mixing incompatible wax and sealant chemistries
• Dry washing gritty surfaces instead of walking away
• Skipping protection after cleaning
Ladder and Fall Safety Around Aircraft
Dry washing means you’re touching every part of the aircraft, wings, stabilizers, nose, belly, and the top of the rudder. That requires ladders or extension poles for those hard to reach places.
Safety first, always:
- Use a stable ladder, not some piece of junk that might get you hurt
- Move the ladder instead of over-reaching
- Keep three points of contact "One hand for you, one hand for the ship"
- Secure towels and bottles so nothing falls
A shiny airplane isn’t worth a trip to the ER.
A Reminder: You’re Removing Protection When You Clean
Every time you clean—wet or dry—you remove some of the protective layer you’ve built up. That’s why sealants aren’t optional if you want to maximize paint life.
One product worth highlighting (we’ll dive deeper in a future article) is Jet Stream’s Liquid Diamond Paint Sealant. It’s designed as part of an ongoing protection program, whether you’re coming off a wax or starting fresh.
It protects against environmental and industrial fallout by bonding tightly to paint, composites, and even fabric.
Quick application basics:
- Shake well
- Apply evenly to a manageable area with a clean microfiber applicator
- For best results, remove with a machine polisher while still wet
- Follow all ladder and tool safety guidelines
Liquid Diamond is a polymer sealant you can reapply regularly after cleaning to keep protection topped up. It’s not a once-and-done—it’s maintenance.
Phillip sums it up perfectly:
“You wouldn’t buy a new car and never clean it or protect it. Same with an airplane. The protection step is just as important as the wash.”
Cleaning and protecting are two sides of the same coin.
Finish Strong: Windows, Brightwork, and De-Icing Boots
Once the paint is clean and sealed, give the windows, brightwork and de-icing or erosion boots their moment.
These surfaces need dedicated products for good reason. Acrylic and polycarbonate hate harsh cleaners—wrong stuff leads to hazing, crazing, or scratches that glare on a night approach. Polished aluminum streaks easily if you use the wrong product. De-icing boots have been stripped and treated with a protectve coating and you will want a product that preserves this finish.
Plexi-Clear is formulated specifically to clean safely and leave a streak-free finish on all of these surfaces. This is the product I keep in the airplane at all times.
It’s strongly recommended to use new or lightly used microfiber towels when cleaning aircraft windows. Once a towel becomes soiled, retire it from window duty and reserve it for general airframe cleaning. Microfiber is designed to trap and hold contaminants — which is great for cleaning, but not so great when you’re dragging those particles across delicate acrylic or polycarbonate. To protect your windows from scratches and haze, always reach for a clean, soft towel.
Before You Go, Let’s Talk About ‘All-in-One’ Products
We all love shortcuts. Shelves are full of bottles promising to clean, polish, and protect in one step.
Reality check: if it’s strong enough to dissolve belly grime, it’s probably too aggressive for lightly dusty wings. You might think you saved time, but you likely stripped more protection than planned and now you have to put it back on.
That’s not efficiency; that’s extra work. Stick with the right tool for each job. You wouldn’t use a ½-inch impact wrench on drywall screws. Same principle.
Final Thoughts: Cleaning with Intention
Done properly, dry washing isn’t a compromise or a shortcut. It’s intentional upkeep that saves time, money, and paint in the long run. It stops grime from bonding, preserves your protection, lets you spot small issues early, and it makes the next cleaning easier. Whether you wipe bugs after every flight or do a full dry wash once a month, it’s one of the most practical tools in any owner’s hangar.
So grab the right gear, block off a couple hours, and give your airplane the regular care it’s earned.
Next up in the series: “Aircraft Detailing: Problem Areas.” See you on the next one!
-TFS
Other Articles in the Aircraft Detailing series:
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is dry washing an airplane safe for the paint?
Yes—when done correctly and under the right conditions, dry washing is safe for aircraft paint, polished aluminum, and many composite surfaces. The key is using aircraft-approved products that encapsulate contaminants, using plenty of clean towels, and walking away when the surface is too dirty or gritty. Dry washing should never replace a wet wash when heavy contamination is present.
Can dry wash products scratch aircraft paint?
They can if misused. Scratching usually comes from dragging embedded grit across the surface, using too few towels, or applying pressure instead of letting the product do the work. Proper technique—light touch, frequent towel changes, and sufficient lubrication—prevents abrasion.
How often should I dry wash my airplane?
Most aircraft owners find success with frequent, light cleanings—often every few flights or once a month—depending on storage and operating environment. Regular dry washing prevents contaminants from bonding to the surface and makes each subsequent cleaning easier and safer.
About the Author
Matt Farrell is Director of Marketing for Aero-Mach and the creator of The Flying Salesman. He works daily with aircraft owners, MROs, and aviation product manufacturers, and has hands-on experience evaluating and using aircraft-approved cleaning and protection systems across general aviation and business aircraft. His background in MRO operations, combined with more than 3,000 hours of flight time, gives him practical insight across a wide range of aviation disciplines.
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